Hallacas

Updated Dec. 18, 2023

Hallacas
Kerri Brewer for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
5½ hours
Prep Time
1 hour
Cook Time
4½ hours
Rating
4(79)
Notes
Read community notes

During the Christmas season, Venezuelans typically gather with their families and team up to make one of the most labor-intensive dishes of the entire year: hallacas, which are similar to Mexican tamales or Puerto Rican pasteles. This multigenerational recipe from Isbelis Diaz and her son, Ivo Diaz, is served at Casa Ora, their fine-dining Venezuelan restaurant in Brooklyn. Ms. Diaz’s great-grandmother learned this recipe from her neighbor nearly a century ago; it has passed down to each matriarch of the family. It starts with a deep red oil made from annatto seeds that is used to flavor the pork filling and masa for the hallacas. Before opening Casa Ora, Ms. Diaz would bring the hallacas — which are double-wrapped in banana leaves and tied with cotton twine — to businesses and events all throughout New York City, hoping to create a clientele. Today, they’re on the menu as an appetizer throughout the year, with a pork or vegan filling. The dish is typically served with other sides, like pan de jamón, but it makes a quick lunch or light supper. Though it’s project cooking at its finest, this recipe yields about 25 hallacas that can be frozen for future feasts. —Christina Morales

Featured in: For Venezuelans, Hallacas Are a Nostalgic Taste of Home

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Ingredients

Yield:About 25 hallacas

    For the Annatto Oil

    • ½cup/75 grams annatto seeds
    • 2cups olive or canola oil

    For the Guiso

    • 2pounds boneless, skinless pork shoulder, diced into ¼-inch pieces
    • 6ounces bacon (about 6 slices), cut into thin strips
    • ½cup/71 grams brined capers
    • 1medium head of garlic, minced (about 4 tablespoons)
    • 1½ pounds Russet potatoes, peeled
    • 1pound carrots, peeled
    • 1large white onion, diced into ¼-inch pieces
    • 1leek (white and light green part only), halved and thinly sliced
    • 3scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
    • 1large red bell pepper, diced into ¼-inch pieces
    • 1large green bell pepper, diced into ¼-inch pieces
    • 6ounces ají dulce peppers (about 20), halved, seeded and thinly sliced
    • 2Maggi chicken bouillon cubes, dissolved in ½ cup of warm water
    • 1(15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed
    • 2cups/340 grams brown raisins
    • cup/125 grams jarred sliced Manzanilla olives and pimentos
    • 2tablespoons/30 grams homemade sazón or store-bought (preferably La Flor)
    • 1½ tablespoons yellow mustard
    • 1½ tablespoons soy sauce
    • 1½ tablespoons black pepper

    For the Assembly

    • 4(1-pound) packages banana leaves, thawed, washed and dried
    • 1large roll (800 feet) cotton twine

    For the Masa

    • 2teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
    • 1(2.43-ounce) box Maggi chicken bouillon cubes (6 cubes)
    • ½cup warm water
    • 1(2 pound 3.27-ounce) bag pre-cooked white Harina Pan cornmeal
    • cups room temperature water, plus more if needed for hydrating masa
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Prepare the annatto oil: In a medium saucepan, add the annatto seeds and oil. Turn on the heat to medium-low and let the seeds simmer slowly until the oil turns deep red and becomes fragrant (it will look and smell similar to red wine), about 20 minutes. Lower the heat slightly if the oil pops too frequently. Strain, then set aside.

  2. Step 2

    Prepare the guiso: In a large pot, heat ⅓ cup of the annatto oil over medium-high. Add the pork, bacon, capers and garlic, and stir to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pork and bacon crisp and some of the liquid evaporates, about 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork mixture to a medium bowl. (Don’t discard the rendered fat.)

  3. Step 3

    While that fries, add about 10 cups of hot water to a medium saucepan or pot and bring to a boil over high. Roughly chop the potatoes and carrots, then add to a food processor and pulse into small, ¼-inch pieces. Once the water is boiling, add the carrots and potatoes and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain into a colander.

  4. Step 4

    Once the meat and root vegetables are done cooking, prepare the rest of the guiso. Add about ½ cup of annatto oil to the large pot and heat over medium-low. Add the onion, leek, scallions, bell peppers, ají dulce and the ½ cup dissolved chicken bouillon liquid, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, about 10 minutes.

  5. Step 5

    Stir in the reserved pork mixture along with the boiled potatoes and carrots, the chickpeas, raisins, olives, sazón, mustard, soy sauce and black pepper. Simmer over medium-low heat until the flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool before making the hallacas. (The filling can be made and refrigerated a day or two in advance.)

  6. Step 6

    Prepare the banana leaves for the hallacas: Separate the smaller leaves and any ripped pieces from the larger ones. Unfold the larger leaves carefully and lay them flat on a counter. Measure and cut the leaves vertically to be about 1 foot in length. If some of your leaves are ripped, you can layer better ones underneath and use them or cut and discard the damaged pieces if they’re closer to the edge.

  7. Step 7

    Prepare the masa: Add the salt and bouillon cubes to ½ cup of warm water in a large measuring cup; crumble and stir until dissolved, to ensure that the salt in the masa is evenly distributed.

  8. Step 8

    In a large mixing bowl, pot or stand mixer, add the cornmeal, 6¾ cups room temperature water, the seasoned water and ¼ cup annatto oil. Mix until the masa is soft and pliable like kids' clay and turns light yellow. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel to prevent the masa from drying out and cracking.

  9. Step 9

    Prepare the hallacas: Have your banana leaves, annatto oil, masa, guiso and a cup of room temperature water nearby. Take a leaf and place it in front of you with the stripes of leaf going in a diagonal direction. Using a silicone pastry brush (or even your fingers), coat the portion of the leaf that faces you with the reserved annatto oil.

  10. Step 10

    Measure out ½ cup of masa and roll it into a ball. If the masa is drying out or cracking in your hands, lightly dab it with some of the water and roll until it hydrates more. Press that ball into the center of the leaf and use your three middle fingers to flatten the masa and spread it outwardly in roughly a 10-inch circle to the edges of leaves until you are just able to see the dark green color of the leaf through the masa. Leave at least 1 inch between the edge of the leaf and your masa. Press and seal any cracks you see along the edge of the masa.

  11. Step 11

    Measure out a loosely packed ½ cup of your guiso and place it in the center of the flattened masa. Using a kitchen knife, push the guiso into a long, 3-inch-wide strip, leaving about 1 inch between the end of your guiso and the edge of the masa on the leaf.

  12. Step 12

    Assemble your hallacas: Carefully grab the left corner of the leaf and fold it over to the right. The masa should fall gently on top, covering at least the left half of the guiso. Repeat with the right-hand side, overlapping the masa slightly in the center. With your fingers, press the ends to seal the guiso inside. If you spot any holes or gaps in the masa at the seams, you can pull a pinch more masa and mold to close them up.

  13. Step 13

    Wrap the hallacas: Starting with the left corner, carefully fold the leaf over the hallaca and tuck the end underneath to create a tight hold. If the leaf does not entirely go over the hallaca, carefully lift the leaf from the bottom, pushing hallaca toward you. Gently thrust the top of the hallaca into your hand and reposition it to the center of the leaf so that the corner can fold underneath.

  14. Step 14

    Once the left corner of the leaf has been tucked, take the now-sealed portion and fold it over to the right until you reach the end of the banana leaf.

  15. Step 15

    Fold the open ends of the hallaca back to seal, then place the scruffy side down onto another leaf. Repeat the same folding.

  16. Step 16

    Place the unkempt side down horizontally on the counter. While still attached to the roll, unfurl about one foot of cotton twine and place it underneath. Unravel a couple of inches more from the roll, but don’t cut the twine yet. Take the ends and cross them over the top and twist tightly. Flip the twine so that the ends are now in a vertical direction. Flip it over so that the bottom is now facing you and repeat until tight for extra support, up to three times. Tie it and trim the twine. Set the hallacas aside for cooking (they’ll keep, refrigerated, for up to 5 days) or freeze them for up to 4 months.

  17. Step 17

    To cook them, place as many as you can in a large pot. Fill that pot with water until all the hallacas are covered. Bring the water up to a boil over high heat and cook them until firm to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes if making a few, or up to 30 minutes if cooking a large batch.

  18. Step 18

    To serve, cut the twine with a scissor and unwrap the plantain leaf. (They can stay in the hot water with the lid on for up to 45 minutes, if you’d like to serve them later.) If you have extra guiso, it can be heated up and spooned on top when serving. If cooking a frozen hallaca, let it sit on the counter to defrost while you boil water. Once the water is boiling, cook the hallaca for slightly longer, about 20 minutes. If you’re reheating a hallaca you have already unwrapped, submerge it in a bowl of water and microwave it for about 4 minutes.

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Cooking Notes

This hallaca recipe is missing chicken & sweet wine in its guiso which would provide the sweet salty taste that is typical in Venezuelan food. It’s also missing all the adornos which are added when assembling: raisins, almonds, olives, tocino. It strangely includes carrots, potatoes & chickpeas — something I’ve never seen. I’m going to assume it must be a regional variant. It’s not an hallaca caraqueña.

Venezuelan hallaca has earned its spot in my kitchen through a recipe encapsulating the true spirit of celebration. Featuring a seamless blend of corn dough and meticulously spiced stews enveloped in leaves, every mouthful becomes a sensory expedition into the heart of Venezuelan festivities. Brimming with genuine flavors and refined textures, this dish goes beyond broadening all flavor horizons; it acts as a cultural conduit, transporting me directly to Venezuela's festivals.

Every Venezuelan household has their own recipe and everyone's favourite hallaca is always their own family's! The recipes also vary according to region (eg.I found the addition of chickpeas + potatoes suggested here unusual) But what I found downright SACRILEGIOUS is using Maggi for the broth. Please don't!! It will mess up the taste to something processed. If you want to avoid the hen broth that's typically used, at least use homemade/good quality chicken broth.

Hallaca is the name in Venezuela. Venezuelans never going to call their delicacy a tamal. Hallaca is a more refined “tamal”, deserves a different name.

Tamal is the correct spelling of the delicacy. tamales is plural; tamal is singular. It is NOT a tamale.

When I suddenly found myself living in rural Pennsylvania as a young boy in the pre-Goya 1960’s having moved from Caracas what I missed most were Hallacas at Christmas and quanabana. This recipe is incorrect. A typical Hallaca does not have garbanzos, potatoes, and carrots and Is missing many of the sweet/salty combinations which make up the basis of Venezuelan cuisine. This hallaca is more of an Andean version typical of a Columbian pastele without the annato tinted masa.

I completely agree with you. I am a similar vintage to you, am Cuban, and have been in Venezuela years ago for an extended period of time. I have never been served chickpeas in Venezuela. and Venezuelans and Cubans typically do not use bouillon cubes when cooking. Great broth is so easy to make, and the taste is fantastic. Cubed bouillon, not so much. Latin cooking is a mix of very complex flavors and ingredients. The same thing happens to me with Cuban cooking. :-(

I completely agree with Isa Lara (one of our best experts on hallacas). Potatoes and chickpeas aren’t typical hallaca ingredients in most regions of Venezuela. And by God, bouillon cubes! The dough REQUIRES a very tasty chicken broth, preferably made from a hen, whose meat is then used as part of the “adornos”. Without “adornos” I think you get a tamal. Casa Ora should have commissioned this recipe to a Venezuelan chef. No Michelin star for them when it comes to hallacas

The author of the first great reference book of Venezuelan cuisine, Don Armando Scannone, once said that "The tamale is a case of corn with a little filling. The hallaca is an excellent filling with a very fine case of corn". This perfectly defines what this emblematic Venezuelan dish consists of, not only gastronomically, but also culturally and societally. Its recipe is an excellent starting point for all the varieties that exist in the country.

This hallaca recipe is missing chicken & sweet wine in its guiso which would provide the sweet salty taste that is typical in Venezuelan food. It’s also missing all the adornos which are added when assembling: raisins, almonds, olives, tocino. It strangely includes carrots, potatoes & chickpeas — something I’ve never seen. I’m going to assume it must be a regional variant. It’s not an hallaca caraqueña.

I completely agree with you, my friend: this recipe lacks elements of the classic hallaca caraqueña, the one that Don Armando Scannone describes so well. Although we should always remember that "the best hallaca is made by my Mom"... Merry Christmas!

Yes. Please we need a recipe for the one you are describing! I lived 3 years in Caracas and never had an hallaca with carrots or chickpeas.

I agree with you both. I am Cuban but have spent some extended time in Venezuela, so I know what things are supposed to look and taste like.

This is almost identical to the Nicaraguan nacatamal, which is usually eaten on Sundays. I think every tropical country (including those in the Eastern hemisphere) has some version of filling steamed in a banana leaf wrapper.

True, Cuba has its own version of tamales too, but certain ingredients are also not found in Cuban tamales, for example fried chicken or ketchup, and I would be disagreeing with those that insist that every family in every country has its own recipe, so everything is fair game. Latin food is not just food, it reflects the culture of each country, even if there are subtle variations amongst local recipes.

Every Venezuelan household has their own recipe and everyone's favourite hallaca is always their own family's! The recipes also vary according to region (eg.I found the addition of chickpeas + potatoes suggested here unusual) But what I found downright SACRILEGIOUS is using Maggi for the broth. Please don't!! It will mess up the taste to something processed. If you want to avoid the hen broth that's typically used, at least use homemade/good quality chicken broth.

Maggi cubes? No way! That destroys all the flavor of the stew and the dough...

On this, I would also add that there are massive regional differences in how the Hallaca is made in Venezuela. Because it is so labour intensive you don't have time to experiment with the recipe. SO each family creates its own and tastes different. In Caracas we wouldn't put potatoes or carrots, for instance. In Margarita they put aubergine. It is really versatile.

This takes me back to my childhood in the 1960s when my Puerto Rican mother commandeered our suburban Maryland kitchen during the holidays making pasteles! Similar to the Venezuelan dish, but with a base of ground green plantains instead of corn, it was us kids’ job to peel the green plantains and feed them into a hand grinder to be later flavored with annatto oil. Mom would make a hundred at a time and the kitchen would be buzzing for two days. Thanks for bringing back happy memories!!

Hallaca is the name in Venezuela. Venezuelans never going to call their delicacy a tamal. Hallaca is a more refined “tamal”, deserves a different name.

Venezuelan hallaca has earned its spot in my kitchen through a recipe encapsulating the true spirit of celebration. Featuring a seamless blend of corn dough and meticulously spiced stews enveloped in leaves, every mouthful becomes a sensory expedition into the heart of Venezuelan festivities. Brimming with genuine flavors and refined textures, this dish goes beyond broadening all flavor horizons; it acts as a cultural conduit, transporting me directly to Venezuela's festivals.

Tamal is the correct spelling of the delicacy. tamales is plural; tamal is singular. It is NOT a tamale.

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Credits

Adapted from Isbelis Diaz and Ivo Diaz, Casa Ora restaurant, Brooklyn, New York

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